The last stop on our week-long Ireland distillery adventure was to The Liberties area of Dublin to visit the Teeling Whiskey Distillery. Dublin was once home to over 30 distilleries, but the last one closed in the mid-70s. Teeling opened just recently in 2015 and is the first new distillery to open in Dublin in the last century. Similar to some Tullamore D.E.W. branding, Teeling Whiskey uses a phoenix on its labels to represent the return of Irish whiskey to Dublin and to the Teeling family.
Our tour started with the history of whiskey in Dublin and in Ireland, its rise and fall and now resurgence across the country. A video described the roller-coaster ride of Irish whiskey history and the construction of the new Teeling Distillery. They sure did not hold back on the building of this modern distillery with a very nice gift shop, bar, tasting area and semi-museum of artifacts and timelines. And the inner workings of the distillery were just as impressive.
Here are some notes from our tour of the “working” area of the distillery:
they use a wet mill – the water reduces the risk of explosion
15,000 liter lauter tun used, holds 30 tons of grist at 60 degrees
6 fermentation tanks – 2 wood (for looks) and 4 metal – 30,000 liters each
fermentation takes between 3 to 5 days
each of their stills has a name
Alison is the Wash Still – 15,000 liters – temp at 90 degrees
Natalie is the Intermediate Still – 10,000 liters – temp at 84 degrees
Rebecca is the Spirit Still – 9,000 liters – temp 78.2 degrees
stills come from Siena, Italy – each are 5 tons and valued over $1 million
aging is done outside of the city in Louth – too dangerous to mature whiskey in the city due to fire concerns
Our tour ended with a premier tasting of the following:
Teeling Single Malt
Teeling Single Cask
and a distillery only Single Malt finished in Cabernet casks
Overall it was a good tour. Unfortunately it was on a Saturday and the distilling floor was non-operational. It’s always nice to be able to see the whiskey being made. It was a very different experience from our other 5 distillery tours in Ireland earlier in the week. Just being in Dublin made it more crowded and busy. The tour was on a strict schedule and there was not much time to linger. We also rushed through the tasting at the end which was less than ideal. But this is part of being in a big city on a weekend too. Teeling is becoming a very popular destination and I am glad we were able to see it now in its early stages.
Charles’ Notes: I had very high expectations for this visit. It was our last distillery visit during our week in Ireland which included Kilbeggan, Tullamore D.E.W., Jameson Midleton, Dingle, Walsh and Teeling. But there was something off about the visit. Our reservation was lost, even though it was guaranteed in advance with a credit card. The tour felt rushed and the tasting too. I had read so many great reviews about distillery visits here so maybe my expectations were too high. Or it’s possible my earlier distillery visits during the week were competing with each other. But whatever the reason, it seemed off. I do think they have a good thing going there with lots of potential and I will definitely be back to make another visit on another Ireland distillery tour. The bar was a very nice touch and the space was well planned out. I am still a big Teeling fan! It’s great to witness the new Irish whiskey renaissance.
Recently I returned from an 8-night whiskey adventure through Ireland. The goal of the trip was to understand the history of Irish whiskey, the process of pot and triple distillation, and the reason behind the buzz of new whiskies being released. My familiarity of Irish whiskey was somewhat limited due to the lack of selection or “interest” in this category at our local drinking establishments in Upstate New York. Over the last year I had purchased more Irish whiskey out of curiosity including the Tullamore D.E.W. Phoenix and Green Spot and had tasted others including the Red Breast line. But my true interest was getting to Ireland to see first-hand and learn from the source.
Over the last year I have visited over 20 distilleries in Scotland and the United States. Each of these distilleries taught me something different which is why I continue to make plans to visit more. In Ireland I visited 6 distilleries during my week-long trip. They included the Kilbeggan Distillery, Tullamore D.E.W., the Jameson Midleton Distillery, the Dingle Distillery, the Walsh Distillery, and the Teeling Distillery. It was in this order that I visited these distilleries and it worked going from the older traditional distilleries learning about the history of Irish whiskey to the newer ones with their fresh perspectives on the future of Ireland and its whiskey.
Here are some of my conclusions from this whiskey trip:
Irish whiskey is really trying to brand itself. At Tullamore D.E.W. we learned of the fire in the town of Tullamore in 1785 and of the phoenix of their Irish whiskey distillery rising out of the ashes in the early 19th century bringing the town back. Teeling also uses a phoenix in their branding. This theme could be seen at each distillery where there was a new hope for the future for Irish whiskey. They accept some failures or circumstances in the past and are really looking to take off in the future. The new Irish Whiskey Museum in Dublin had a great section describing the roller coaster ride of their whiskey history.
When visiting the Kilbeggan, Tullamore D.E.W. and Jameson Midleton distilleries, the tours were mostly about the history and past. They all included a detailed process of the stages of creating their whiskies, but they used props or antiquated equipment to show each stage. There was very little “working” distillery viewing. In fact, the Tullamore D.E.W. experience was in their old bonded warehouse which was converted into a visitor’s center. You can visit the actual distillery if you do their high-end day tour, but most visitors are not able to see this. This was different from many of the distilleries in Scotland or the United States that I had visited. There is something exciting about seeing the stills in action and the washbacks full of bubbling yeast. Kilbeggan and Jameson Midleton did have some stills that you could see where they did experimental distilling, but they were not the main working stills.
“Sourcing” of whiskey in Ireland reminds me of the challenges that some U.S. distilleries face when they are not transparent of where their whiskey comes from. I understand that the Cooley and Midleton distilleries supply many of the newer brands of Irish whiskey, especially the ones that have whiskies labeled over 5 years old. I remember how big of an issue that became in the United States when this “sourcing” was not clear. We didn’t visit West Cork Distillers or Hyde, but I would have liked to understand more about their whiskey production. I understand how difficult it is to start a distillery and the reality of having to wait as your whiskey ages, but if you are coming out with a 10-year old whiskey, it would be nice to know where and by whom it was distilled.
Triple distillation is truly Irish. If there was one common theme among all of the distilleries we visited, it was triple distillation. It almost seemed sacrilegious if whiskey was double distilled. Sorry to the rest of the world… But it does give the Irish a unique way of labeling it “Irish”.
There is no love lost with the Scots. The Coffey still was a good example of this. Invented by the Irish, it was determined that the whiskey distilled by the Coffey still was bland and tasteless. Mr. Coffey then took his continuous still to Scotland where it was used to produce a lot of whiskey which eventually hurt the Irish through competition. The other thing that we constantly heard was that “all” Scottish whisky uses peat. It almost got to the point where I just smiled and laughed inside when I heard this. But this is the image that they are trying to get across: Scotch is smoky, Irish is smooth and easy to drink. To each his own…
It seemed that they all knew each other. It was amazing to see the connections and/or relationships among the distilleries, especially the newer ones. Maybe this is due to the fact that this new era of Irish whiskey is just starting, or that they all worked together at some point in the past.
A lot of money is being invested in the new Irish whiskey distilleries. It was amazing to see the new Walsh and Teeling distilleries. They were the most polished distilleries I had ever seen! The Walsh distillery was interesting in that they said that this was the beginning of a 120+ year history. They were looking generations out. The Tullamore D.E.W. experience was also high tech with videos, lots of different lighting and effects, and a nice tasting room. We saw Dingle’s plans for the future as well, and they are going to redo their whole visitor experience with a new remodel.
The highlight of the trip was the day we spent at the Dingle distillery. Being able to spend an entire day “working” with the crew was unforgettable. Not only did we get to see and work their process, but we were able to discuss their vision for the future and the industry in general. They were gracious hosts and I can’t wait to go back to Dingle.
Overall, it was an incredible trip and I came back with a new appreciation and knowledge for Irish whiskey. I look forward to returning in a few years to revisit some that I visited and many of the new ones that are just starting. Here are some interesting bottles that I picked up that we will use for our next tasting with the Saratoga Whiskey Club (www.saratogawhiskeyclub.com).